Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
Today was our first full day aboard National Geographic Quest , and it has truly been a spectacular start to our voyage. As guests awoke, we arrived into the Little Harbor cove alongside common dolphins bow-riding below and brown pelicans soaring above. Morning activities were a variety of hikes on the backside of Catalina Island, while in the afternoon we were able to explore the Mediterranean-feeling town of Avalon. Paired with scoops of delectable ice cream, botanical garden sights, and many more exciting stops in town, we were able to see the true local lifestyle of island living.
We started the day’s activities at the beautiful harbor of São Roque in Pico. Half of our group embarked on a hike along the northern coast of the island, while the rest enjoyed a leisurely tour of Criaçao Velha. The weather was generous, and the clouds kept us sheltered from the heat. After returning to the ship and enjoying lunch, we made our way to the neighboring island of Faial, where we all went on a panoramic tour that took us around the island and to the Porto Pim Whale Factory Museum. The tour ended at the famous Peter’s Sports Café in Horta, where we all shared a drink and a quick visit to the scrimshaw museum upstairs before returning to the ship in time for the last activity of the day, the amazing crew show after dinner.
Today we explored the lovely island of Beqa, which is part of Fiji. The day started with a visit to a small village by the coast and an optional hike to a neighboring village. The hike took us up a hill and provided beautiful views of the ocean and the bays below. Along the way, we looked for birds, visited a kava farm, and learned a bit about local plants. We even visited the village school, which had a small library and playground for the kids. After we finished the hike, we had a delicious lunch on board National Geographic Orion then we took Zodiacs ashore at a new location. When we pulled up on the beach, we were greeted by a chorus of singers from one of the villages. The music was beautiful, and we all enjoyed listening to the group sing and play their instruments. We shared a bowl of kava with our greeting party and then were treated to a special ritual – firewalking! Men from the village showed us their traditional practice of walking over extremely hot rocks that have been heated by a strong fire. It was impressive! It was our last full day on this trip, and we certainly made the most of it.
Late this morning we arrived at our first island in the Azores, Santa Maria Island. Making our day more fun and different, we had a brunch and mid-day outing to experience the island. We did some walking, some touring… and so we did not suffer, a late-afternoon picnic! It is wetter and a bit cooler here than our previous stops. A perfect build up to yet a different climate as we meander our way up the Atlantic Ocean. As all our islands have been, Santa Maria is also volcanic.
We reached the penultimate day of our journey in Astoria, Oregon, where the Columbia River collides with the open ocean. We were met with a typical Pacific Northwest day of gentle rains punctuated by moments of sunshine. The guests were divided to conquer this gem of a city, nestled under bridges; half headed across the river to Washington to visit the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment, while the other half visited the Columbia River Maritime Museum and Astoria Column. The museum and the interpretive center are both excellent examples of what the west coast can offer with regard to history and culture. Each has thoughtful exhibits that cover broad swaths of topics, and are staffed with informative and helpful faculty. After a hearty lunch on board, the groups swapped in order to have the best of both worlds. Finally, all met back aboard for the week’s final recap and guest slideshow.