Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
Happy Christmas Eve! This morning, we rode our Zodiacs ashore to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Local guides shared the history and culture behind the traditional canoes that are still used today to cross oceans. From there our newly minted chief (nominated from the guests) was confronted by the Māori Chief in front of the marae (meeting house). Thankfully we were recognized as coming in peace and we were welcomed inside for a performance of traditional music and dance. Te Whare Runanga is unique because it was built as a national marae to be shared by all Māori tribes. This evening, we shared in our own musical performance of Christmas carols to celebrate Christmas Eve with all onboard.
The body of water between South America’s Cape Horn and the Antarctic Peninsula, the Drake Passage, is one of the most infamous stretches of water. We were fortunate to have a friendly passage today with only 35 knots of wind and less than 4-meter wave heights. The seas were spitting and spraying while the albatross and petrels relished in soaring along, unhindered. While we not only prepared ourselves for the journey ahead, but we also got the chance to meet our National Geographic-Lindblad naturalist team and our National Geographic Expert Kenneth Garrett who will be sailing this voyage with us. After a presentation about the seabirds we could expect to see on this voyage by Naturalist Bryan Holliday, we all went out on the outer decks to identify and photograph these magnificent species.
This was a true expedition day, as plans were adjusted due to changing conditions, but in the end, it was a miraculously amazing day full of wonderful events. In the morning, we found ourselves in a very dense concentration of both multi-year and glacial ice, and Captain Martin decided to revise the plan, and we set on the course to Paulet Island, one of the inactive volcanoes in this area where a colony of almost 400,000 Adelie penguins is known to reside. Guests were split in two groups and while the first group had a short hike to observe the penguin colony and very young chicks, the second group enjoyed a presentation onboard, and later they switched. After a delicious dinner, a group of orcas were spotted from the bridge, and for over an hour guests were able to watch the dramatic episodes of orcas hunting Adelie penguins. It was unforgettable experience on this Christmas Eve!
California sea lions greeted National Geographic Venture off the island of San Esteban this morning! Their curiosity even compelled them to follow our Zodiacs as we transferred to the island for hikes among the cardon cactus forest. We were thrilled to see how playful the sea lions were in the water. To explore the island of San Pedro Martir in the afternoon, we again set out in Zodiacs. This was a perfect way to explore this world-class UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The island and its steep cliff walls make it an excellent breeding ground for birds. The island is highly protected to ensure the successful population growth for the blue-footed boobies, red-billed tropic birds, and brown boobies that rely on this site as a nesting and breeding ground.
This morning, we were greeted by the calm waters of Golfo Dulce as National Geographic Quest approached Playa Blanca, the destination of the day in the heart of Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula. Today was dedicated to immersing ourselves in the sustainable practices and vibrant culture of local Costa Rican families. In the morning, guests had the opportunity to explore various facets of local life. Some ventured into the heart of the Osa Peninsula to observe gold panning and visit a historic sugar mill, while others toured cacao plantations or hiked through the lush rainforest. Another group visited a women-run hearts of palm farm, learning about its eco-friendly practices. After returning to the beach for a BBQ lunch, guests were treated to traditional Costa Rican dances. In the afternoon, we resumed our explorations, visiting more local sites. Later, scientists from the Latin American Sea Turtle Association shared their efforts in protecting these remarkable creatures. We had the incredible experience of watching them release rehabilitated turtles back into the ocean—an unforgettable way to end the day.
