Here in the North, the weather is fickle. It was only yesterday that we were racing to escape the strongest winds the ship has ever faced. Yet, in the early hours of the morning, we were rewarded with calm waters and clear skies. The most spectacular northern lights of the voyage welcomed us into this new fjord, churning and twisting like green and purple flames. It only takes a quick look up into the sky to realize why the belief in magic has endured in these latitudes.

As soon as the aurora was replaced by the sun, the expedition rushed into the Zodiacs to cruise and explore the fjord. The glacier, flanked by the brownish traces of its past glory, towered above our boats like a giant. Only the peaks surrounding it seemed big enough to contain the glacier’s inexorable advance. Everyone aboard our fleet was mesmerized by the whites and blues of the frozen colossus. After gazing at it for hours, we reluctantly made our way back to the ship, where we enjoyed a well-deserved lunch.

After a short break, our expedition headed back into the Zodiacs. This time, however, instead of cruising through the water of the fjord, we had the opportunity to go ashore. Setting foot on one of the oldest lands in the world is hard to convey in just a few words, even more so when one is walking under the gaze of the ancient geological layers present in every surface protruding from the water.

Going back to the ship keeps getting harder and harder every time as the wonders of Greenland unravel before us.