We made a smooth crossing over Bonaparte Gulf, where glass conditions allowed us to spot large sea snakes rising for air at the surface. We then sailed into Darwin Harbour for a technical stop.
Darwin Harbour was discovered by the crew of HMS Beagle during their exploration of the north coast of Australia in the 1840s. After viewing the large laterite chalky cliffs on the entrance to the vast harbour, the maritime team reflected on their former naturalist friend and shipmate Charles Darwin and his fascination with geology.
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We arrived at Swift Bay where most of us went on a fabulous helicopter ride over the Mitchell Plateau. The whole trip took two hours including a walk at Mitchell Falls. The little bay we started from slowly filled with water and the tide was so fast that it rose more than one meter per hour. Alternatively, our expedition team took those on a Zodiac cruise who opted to stay on the ground. When we returned, the scenery looked entirely different. After lunch we had another exciting tour, this time to a Wandjina art site. We admired a long gallery of ancestral spirits, some three meters long, as well as a variety of animals, which are significant to the local Aboriginal people. This is evidence that hunting and gathering was practiced thousands of years ago and is documented in art. The ship set off towards Darwin and we enjoyed an excellent presentation by Brad Siviour about the crocodiles we had come so close to yesterday. The day concluded with our favorite drink during cocktail hour while we witnessed another red sky sunset.
This morning, we awoke to blue skies and calm seas in the Hunter River in Prince Fredrick Harbor. Several waterways lead from this harbor, and our morning outing was up the appropriately named Porosus Creek. The tide was very low, and we were able to watch several estuarine crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus), feeding on small fish in the mangrove-lined narrow channels off the main creek. It was a real treat to witness these primitive creatures catching prey. After lunch we relocated a short distance and explored the coastline and mangrove communities on the western side of the harbor. This area also features a geological formation known as Thor’s Hammer. The day ended with sunset cocktails on the top deck while watching another spectacular Kimberley sunset.
This morning, we got to explore Bigge Island, the second largest island in the Kimberley region. This island has been used for many thousands of years by Aboriginal communities nearby – particularly as a site for rock art and burial ceremonies. It is also home to the Monjon, the smallest species of rock wallaby. Unfortunately, they had all tucked in for their daytime sleep already! A short exploration of the island showed us one of the burial areas and rock art, including some “contact art” paintings that depict first impressions of European colonists to the region. After a tasty lunch on board, we disembarked to visit a beautiful cave hidden by the high tide. Walking through the twists and narrow slots in the rocks was magical, only outdone once you entered Cathedral Cave and saw it open above you. Our amazing hotel team was inside and had set up tasty treats and drinks for us to enjoy, and even formed a small band with one of our guests to perform some live cave music. A breaching humpback whale in the distance saluted us at sunset, a wonderful end to a great day!
