Bear Island, Svalbard, Norway, 5/12/2018, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
Today, en route to the Svalbard archipelago, we visited Bear Island, one of the many isolated islands that punctuate the Barents Sea. Conditions were decidedly colder than they have been recently, with gusty winds. We rode a Zodiac to a sheltered bay on the south coast, exploring sea cliffs that are home to thousands of screeching kittiwakes, Brunnich’s guillemots, and fulmars.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
This morning, we awoke to light, shifting fog and scattered sea ice. Our destination, Torellneset, lies in the distance, its stark shores striped with snow drifts. A few walruses patrolled the shore for a potential haul out, their efforts thwarted by a still-prominent ice ledge. Upon arrival, we walked over seabed raised through rebound into gravel terraces and scattered with a few resilient plant beds and a lone whale skeleton. It’s a desolate place, but a startlingly beautiful one. In the afternoon, we ventured into sea ice in search of polar bears, and it was not long before we found one. We observed at a respectable distance before quietly departing, retreating into soft snow.
After a week exploring the most remote corners of the Norwegian fjords, today we arrived in the city of Tromsø, gateway to the Arctic, and we were welcomed by full summer weather —apparently the first warm day of the year—while the surrounding mountains were still completely covered in snow. We set off early and part of the group visited a museum to learn about the history of cod (tasting included!), an important part of life in this region for many centuries. Others went to a dog kennel (because petting huskies is always a great choice) and learned firsthand about the Finnmarksløpet, the most important dog sled race in Europe. Later, we all met at the Polar Museum which holds a rich collection of items from polar expeditions that passed through this city. In those days, anyone heading to or returning from Svalbard stopped here. To make the most of this summer-like day, the galley team surprised us with homemade burgers, which we enjoyed under the sun on the outside decks while sailing through the last fjords before heading out to open sea. And as a little preview of what lies ahead, puffins and humpback whales came to greet us. Svalbard, here we come!
The morning began with a light drizzle at the small Sami settlement of Hellmobotn. Unperturbed, everyone went ashore for beautiful walks surrounded by beautiful waterfalls, birch and pine trees, and large black rocks of the fjord walls. With positivity in the air, the sun came out between the clouds and the day turned out to be gloriously warm in the fjords of Norway. Instead of moving locations after the lunch, the decision was made to enjoy the beautiful weather. Two rounds of kayaks went out and Zodiac cruises zipped along the fjords where everyone was continually captivated by the beauty of Norway.
