National Geographic Explorer arrived in Funnigsfjorour Fjord around breakfast time, one of the two great fjords that slices deep into the island of Eysturoy. Shortly afterwards, we took zodiacs to the island’s main landing site, a concrete platform with 88 steps leading to a trail that took us to Elduvik, one of the archipelago’s most idyllically located villages. We were treated to incredible hospitality by the locals with a village tour, including homemade soup and cake and a walk up the incredibly scenic valley behind the village, which is populated by far more sheep and birds – mostly boisterous black oystercatchers and wandering whimbrels – than the dozen or so residents of Elduvik.