Today was our final day in South Georgia. The dawn broke gradually with a heavy fog and rain. Captain Aaron Wood navigated the ship very close to the shore at Stromness, allowing us to observe the constant fracas between male fur seals. Right beside the males, sleepy females nursed their newborn pups. We headed out to sea in the morning, bound for the Falkland Islands.
1/20/2025
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National Geographic Endurance
Hercules Bay and Grytviken, South Georgia
After yesterday’s windy start to our South Georgia visit, it was delightful to awaken this morning to calm conditions in Hercules Bay. Exploring by Zodiac, we found riches of avian and pinniped wildlife, lush vegetation, and swirling kelp forests. Macaroni penguins clambered down steep hillsides from their tussock burrows to the sea. Light-mantled albatross soared overhead, and playful young fur seals filled the intertidal zone. Strikingly folded sedimentary rocks created a dramatic landscape. The blustery and snowy afternoon was spent at Grytviken, one of six former shore-based whaling stations on the island. In the small cemetery, we honored the legacy and leadership of Sir Ernest Shackleton with a toast. Hikers climbed above the site for a view over the bay, while others enjoyed walking tours with a historian from the South Georgia Heritage Trust to learn about station infrastructure and daily life. The whaling and sealing past of this region provide a tangible reminder that modern conservation efforts are critical to the Southern Ocean’s ecological future.
