Kitava, Trobriand Islands, Papua New Guinea
Today was our first full expedition day of the trip, and it proved to be a very colourful and culturally rich morning on the island of Kitava, where the schoolchildren from Kumwageya village school staged a memorable dance fest. The people of the Trobriand Islands are very proud of how well they have maintained their valued traditions, and cultural instruction is a vital part of the primary school curriculum. The weather was perfect for our visit and we landed right at the dancing ground, where we were adorned with lovely plumaria leis as we entered the dance ‘enclosure’. The great Bronislaw Malinowski’s writings in the early decades of the 20th century made this culture famous among anthropologists and other travellers worldwide.
A large crowd of villagers were also in attendance, keen to sell the beautifully carved wooden artifacts for which their islands are justly famous. Today, we were treated to a full set of traditional dances by pupils ranging in age from six to fifteen; all were wonderfully decorated, and proudly watched by their relatives as they danced. There is no mistaking the sexual undertones of the dances aimed at ensuring the fertility of the all-important yam crop.
Once the dance program had ended, and our Captain was presented with a token of appreciation for bringing us here, we visited the local craft market, which had come to us right at the beach, before beginning a walk along the ‘main road’ that leads up to the village, one of four on Kitava. For the local children, the highlight of their day was a ride on Xplorer; when the offer was made, I’ve never seen so many small bodies move so fast, and our landing craft was filled in a minute.
By the time we returned for water sports early afternoon, the action had shifted to nearby Nuratu Island, with its gorgeous white beaches, wonderful coral reefs and incredibly clear blue water. Suzanne was our able swimming instructor, watched from the shade further up the beach by about thirty men and boys. Most are carvers, and had brought their pieces across to the island, hoping that there would be further interest in the purchase of artefacts. Alas for them, the lure of the water was too strong, but they seemed content to sit and watch, smoking the thinnest cigarettes imaginable or chewing betel nut – easily spotted because of the redness of mouths and teeth.
Later, back on board, Larry and the crew took us through emergency drills, lifeboat muster, and other necessary precautions and procedures for life at sea. We considered ourselves blessed that the weather had remained so perfect. Before dinner we assembled in the lounge for drinks, and I spoke about some of the complexities of the ‘Kula Ring,’ and Larry briefed us about what we may expect tomorrow when we visit the Tufi area and its spectacular drowned river valleys or rias.
