In our typical tradition, we began operations at Gold Harbour just as dawn was breaking over a stunning bight in the South Georgia shoreline. Snow showers and low clouds cast a dramatic atmosphere over this bustling shoreline, where over 30,000 pairs of king penguins and thousands of elephant and Antarctic fur seals gather to breed each year. It made for a thrilling start to the day. We spent the entire morning here, arranging an after-breakfast landing and hike for those who chose not to join us in the wee hours of the morning. With a marked improvement in the weather, the second morning landing truly made for a complete experience here. Hikers set out to explore the plateau that rises over the beaches and colony, while the rest of the guests took in the awe-inspiring sights and sounds of the third largest king penguin colony on South Georgia Island.

The afternoon was spent cruising the dramatic coastline of the island about seven miles offshore, where we encountered what can best be described as “whale soup.” Humpback, fin, and even blue whales surrounded the ship, offering a perfect farewell to South Georgia.