Haines, Alaska, 8/31/2024, National Geographic Sea Bird
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Bird
Alaska
Haines is a small and stunning city in Southeast Alaska and one of only three that are connected to mainland Alaska by road. A lot of us went to the village of Klukwan and learned about the seasonal sustenance hunting and gathering of food. We also heard stories about the Whale House Artifacts (over 200 years old) which are some of the most impressive extant totems in the world.
The float down the braided rivers of Chilkat Valley was both peaceful and beautiful. Because the salmon are running, the eagles were plentiful.
I like to remind people that there are very few big surprises left in life, but if you are out in nature, with an open mind and a lot of time, you never know what you will find.
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The day started with an exciting encounter. Before breakfast we observed a group of bubble-netting humpback whales. It was incredible to see them lunge and hear them breathing at the surface. This was coupled by a glorious pink sunrise. After breakfast we took Zodiac cruises searching for bears near Pavlof Harbor. Even though we did not find any (wildlife is always delightfully unexpected), the scenery was beautiful, and we watched many adorable harbor seals. After thinking the excitement of the day was done, we spotted a large group of whales from a distance. While approaching closer, we realized this group was also bubble-net feeding. Close to the shore, we observed these whales for hours. We even dropped the hydrophone to hear their haunting feeding call before they all lunged at the surface. It was one of the most incredible things any of us had ever witnessed. As if this wasn’t enough, at our sunset recap we got the call that there were killer whales around the ship. It was the most amazing ending to the most amazing day.
This morning, we awoke to a quintessential Southeast Alaska day in Icy Strait, with low clouds, a little mist, and amazing opportunities to see wildlife. Several sea otters floated by National Geographic Sea Lion as we made our way west, but the real magic began when we saw four humpback whales. Calm at first, they soon began an incredible display of activity, including breaching, pectoral slapping, and tail lobbing. Continuing, we dropped anchor at George Island to enjoy hiking and kayaking for the morning. It’s fall in the forest and the variety of mushrooms on display was remarkable. Before heading back to the ship for lunch, the brave among us took part in our polar plunge by running into the ocean from the beach. They came out looking refreshed and ready to be warmed by a chili lunch! After a short repositioning, we anchored at the Inian Islands to spend our afternoon Zodiac cruising this special place. Never one to disappoint, the Inians brought us sea otters, Steller sea lions, bald eagles, scores of rhinoceros auklets, and even some humpback whales. We came back feeling enchanted by this landscape and the animals that make it home.
After exploring the remote corners of Chichagof Island yesterday, it was time for a day of adventure in one of our favorite Alaskan small towns. Haines straddles a unique peninsula that juts out into the Lynn Canal. Framed by exquisite mountain ranges and dynamic tidal flats, it hosts a spectacular abundance of bald eagles which frequent the Chilkat River. The choices for guest excursions in Haines are many and diverse: rafting and visiting a tribal village, fly fishing, hiking the highest peak on the peninsula, a guided bike tour, or unstructured time to explore town with its many museums and unique shops. There are no poor choices when it comes to deciding what to do for the day. Brown bears, Dolly Varden, sockeye salmon, harbor seals, bald eagles, banana slugs the size of real bananas, and plenty of other endemic flora and fauna were sighted by guests throughout the day. And of course, what better way to celebrate a successful day in Haines than with a glorious endless crab feast back on board National Geographic Sea Lion ? We rounded out the evening with a contagiously inquisitive presentation by our resident master falconer and naturalist, Alberto Montaudon. Can’t wait until tomorrow!
