We woke today to the ‘other’ Arctic weather today– it seems that it’s not always sunny and warm! Another polar bear made a distant morning appearance as we arrived in Krossfjorden, along with a herd of Svalbard reindeer, but could not be approached due to the uncharted nature of some of the waters in the area. It really feels like a frontier of human endeavour up here. Following in the true spirit of exploration, our hardy hikers were not deterred by the snow and biting wind, and groups set off through the snow for bracing but enjoyable walks of various lengths, while others enjoyed a more sedate zodiac cruise. The long hikers reached the site of the World War II radio station at Signehamna, which was destroyed by the Norwegian Navy (the same vessel soon after sunk by a German U-boat in the vicinity).
For many, the mornings highlight was good views of Arctic fox, but snow bunting, Arctic skua and great northern divers all put in appearances. The shoreline by the landing site contained an approachable flock of hungry purple sandpipers, feeding up after their long migration, and waiting for some snow to melt to get down to the serious business of breeding. The later snow melt this year will likely delay breeding for a number of species in the area, but hopefully they will manage to be successful this year.
In the afternoon we stopped close to the stunning Lillehøøkbreen (Little Hawk) glacier, and were lucky enough to witness some very substantial calving of the glacier.
Great afternoon talks and a couple of distant fin whales helped us on our way to Poolepynten where we went ashore on an uncharacteristic after-dinner outing. Feeling rather full ourselves, we finally got great views of walrus, a species which had mostly evaded us so far on the trip.
It’s difficult to believe, but somehow each day is better than the last.
