David Cothran, Naturalist/Certified Photo Instructor
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Daily Expedition
Reports
18 May 2017
Olden & Briksdal Glacier, 5/18/2017, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Arctic
Traveling deep within one of Norway’s many fjord, National Geographic Orion arrived to Olden. With eyes stretching skyward to see the tops of the fjord, our guests headed to Briksdal Glacier for a view of the remaining ice that once carved through the stone. Walking amidst the valley, many waterfalls crossed our paths. All while the Undersea Specialist team explored the anomaly of a farm flooded in 1908 by a rock slide that interrupted a river’s path.
Paul North is the founder of the educational nonprofit Meet the Ocean and host of its online podcast. As a polar diver with Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic, he tours the remote underwater landscapes of Antarctica and other sub-zero destinati...
David has worked for Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic since 1993 on six continents and in over 65 countries. David is interested in many of the natural sciences, particularly ornithology, geology and marine biology; he most enjoys contrasting...
This morning, we awoke to light, shifting fog and scattered sea ice. Our destination, Torellneset, lies in the distance, its stark shores striped with snow drifts. A few walruses patrolled the shore for a potential haul out, their efforts thwarted by a still-prominent ice ledge. Upon arrival, we walked over seabed raised through rebound into gravel terraces and scattered with a few resilient plant beds and a lone whale skeleton. It’s a desolate place, but a startlingly beautiful one. In the afternoon, we ventured into sea ice in search of polar bears, and it was not long before we found one. We observed at a respectable distance before quietly departing, retreating into soft snow.
After a week exploring the most remote corners of the Norwegian fjords, today we arrived in the city of Tromsø, gateway to the Arctic, and we were welcomed by full summer weather —apparently the first warm day of the year—while the surrounding mountains were still completely covered in snow. We set off early and part of the group visited a museum to learn about the history of cod (tasting included!), an important part of life in this region for many centuries. Others went to a dog kennel (because petting huskies is always a great choice) and learned firsthand about the Finnmarksløpet, the most important dog sled race in Europe. Later, we all met at the Polar Museum which holds a rich collection of items from polar expeditions that passed through this city. In those days, anyone heading to or returning from Svalbard stopped here. To make the most of this summer-like day, the galley team surprised us with homemade burgers, which we enjoyed under the sun on the outside decks while sailing through the last fjords before heading out to open sea. And as a little preview of what lies ahead, puffins and humpback whales came to greet us. Svalbard, here we come!
The morning began with a light drizzle at the small Sami settlement of Hellmobotn. Unperturbed, everyone went ashore for beautiful walks surrounded by beautiful waterfalls, birch and pine trees, and large black rocks of the fjord walls. With positivity in the air, the sun came out between the clouds and the day turned out to be gloriously warm in the fjords of Norway. Instead of moving locations after the lunch, the decision was made to enjoy the beautiful weather. Two rounds of kayaks went out and Zodiac cruises zipped along the fjords where everyone was continually captivated by the beauty of Norway.
