Tuesday started with hikes over game trails along the edge of a salmon stream heading towards Pavlof Lake. Hikers spotted beaver activity and bear scat while venturing around to take in scenic views of the stream, a beautiful lakeside meadow, and the mountainside. Hikers took between one to three hours to complete their journeys on differently paced and structured hikes. After the morning adventures, a brown bear mother and cub were spotted on shore wandering around the intertidal area. In the afternoon, guests had the option to enjoy Zodiac cruises along Freshwater Bay, most notably Cedar Cove, as well as kayaking. Those in Zodiacs spotted harbor seals, bald eagles, and pigeon guillemots in addition to other wildlife, while those in kayaks spotted jellyfish and sea stars under the sea. The day ended with a wonderful cocktail hour with charcuterie, wine, and presentations by the naturalists and undersea team.
National Geographic Quest
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.