On the surface, Portobelo appears to be another site for religious pilgrimage in the Americas, but the ambiance in this small town on the Panamanian Caribbean coast goes far beyond mere fervent Catholicism and is where African beliefs meet those of Europeans’ and blend into something unique. A brisk walk through the town brings you to castles sacked on numerous occasions by English privateers, and formerly important bastions for the Spanish Empire. There is an unforgettable museum made from coral detailing the slave history of Portobelo and the culture of the new settlers, including an imposing church where even the Virgin Mary is holding a pair of handcuffs. “Why?” you may ask. Well, you will have to visit to find out.
11/1/2024
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National Geographic Quest
San Antero, Lorica, and Tuchin
Today, our explorations took us inside a little-known part of Colombia to the town of San Antero. Located in the Córdoba Department of Northern Colombia, this quaint town surrounded by farmlands, is known as the land of donkeys. Since 1987, El Festival del Burro, or the Donkey Festival, has become an emblematic event in San Antero, taking place during Holy Week to honor the hard work of donkeys that carry plantains and dig ditches. We made our way to Santa Cruz de Lorica and met up with our local guides who led us through this charming riverside town. In the architecture, art, and artisan market (a national monument) we could sense the influence of the several waves of immigration from France, Belgium, England, Syria, and Lebanon. Before moving on to our next destination, we were treated to folkloric music and dancing along the Sinú River. The indigenous village of Tuchin was our next stop and here, not only were we treated to traditional dancing by the Zenu people, but we also got a glimpse of the process that goes into making the sombrero vueltiao, the national symbol of Colombia. The artisans of Tuchin produce more than 1,000 vueltiao hats a day, continuing an art form that has existed within the region for over 1,000 years.
