As is very typical for operating expeditions in Svalbard, plans change based on many variables, which is exactly what happened this morning. With building winds offshore being driven by the massive icecap that covers Nordaustlandet, we had to abort our landing efforts at Agustabukta and set off in search of another adventure Svalbard was waiting to offer us. With near bluebird conditions and surrounded by stunning beauty in panoramic glory, we chose to seek out an area of the Hinlopen Strait where good ice conditions afforded us encounters with Svalbard’s most famous residents, polar bears. As fate would have it, we found 2 lone male polar bears out on the fast ice, sea ice held fast to the shore that is a critical habitat for the bears and their forage. It’s such a powerful experience to witness these magnificent rulers of the ice in their natural habitat, watching them from a distance in a “fly on the wall” fashion.
Our afternoon was spent kayaking and Zodiac cruising just north of Bjørnsundet in glass-calm conditions, observing walrus and bearded seals, and taking in the surroundings and Svalbard’s wild, pristine beauty.
5/19/2025
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Dolerittneset/Kapp Lee, Svalbard
We said it at the beginning of the trip, and we meant it…this is not a cruise, it’s an expedition! Today’s plan was to land at Sundneset but when we arrived, we found the site completely blocked by ice. No problem. Within five minutes, the expedition leader and the bridge team had a plan B, a landing on another island just 30 minutes away. And what a plan B it was! A beautiful, icy beach that has witnessed over four centuries of Arctic history, including whalers, trappers, and scientists, all passed through here leaving behind countless stories that helped bring this place to life for our guests. Spring is slowly arriving on the island of Edgeøya. The snow is beginning to melt, the first birds are returning, plants are starting to grow, and reindeer were happily grazing near the landing site, starting their recovery after a long, harsh winter. This place is still mostly black and white, but in just a few weeks, it will be alive with greenery, flowers, and wildlife. A vivid reminder of the ever-changing nature of the High Arctic. Now we say goodbye to the high latitudes of Svalbard and begin our journey south to Bear Island—a solitary rock in the middle of the Barents Sea, and our final stop in this remote archipelago. The adventure continues!
