As we entered the protection of West Greenland’s fjords, the weather abated. Low clouds gave way to a brilliant sunrise for those up early enough to witness it. Calm winds allowed a mirrorlike ocean to amplify the morning light. As we steamed east, the mountains rose, and the waterway constricted. Traveling deep into Greenland’s fjords feels as though we’re entering the Earth, every turn giving way to another dramatic vista.

For the morning, we set out to explore the head of this fjord in Zodiacs. The glacier calved ice again and again from its face and sides, providing an astounding show for all. From our small boats, the perspective of this massive landscape really set in. Glaucous gulls circled about us. The juveniles hatched just weeks prior. They gave into curiosity and cruised by at a close distance. As the clouds moved, they sculpted the light, illuminating different features and aspects of the ice surrounding us.

While cruising towards tomorrow’s destination, we enjoyed the luxury of our ship. The galley treated us to wine and cheese between talks about climate and our typical series of short presentations that help us reflect upon the day. The landscapes here offer a consistently jaw-dropping show; we look to what lies ahead with anticipation, as every day proves to add to the majesty of this region.