Portobelo, Panama, 10/29/2024, National Geographic Quest
Aboard the
National Geographic Quest
Costa Rica, Panama & Colombia
I have always heard about the color and richness of the Caribbean Islands, but it was not until today that I got to experience it firsthand. From the moment we set foot on shore, the color of the murals on the walls and the paint on the buildings, you could tell we were in for a truly rich experience.
After touring the island town, we were treated to traditional dance and conga music from some of the local people. As a woman says in one of the videos at a visitor site, “This is not a show, this is what we do.” The drum beat and the dancers drew us in, and we became part of the experience.
Steve Morello has had a long and colorful career in the natural history world. Born in New Jersey, he was lucky to be able to summer on the shores of Cape Cod. Whether it was exploring the tidal pools, snorkeling along the beach, or hiking in the dun...
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Today, our explorations took us inside a little-known part of Colombia to the town of San Antero. Located in the Córdoba Department of Northern Colombia, this quaint town surrounded by farmlands, is known as the land of donkeys. Since 1987, El Festival del Burro, or the Donkey Festival, has become an emblematic event in San Antero, taking place during Holy Week to honor the hard work of donkeys that carry plantains and dig ditches. We made our way to Santa Cruz de Lorica and met up with our local guides who led us through this charming riverside town. In the architecture, art, and artisan market (a national monument) we could sense the influence of the several waves of immigration from France, Belgium, England, Syria, and Lebanon. Before moving on to our next destination, we were treated to folkloric music and dancing along the Sinú River. The indigenous village of Tuchin was our next stop and here, not only were we treated to traditional dancing by the Zenu people, but we also got a glimpse of the process that goes into making the sombrero vueltiao, the national symbol of Colombia. The artisans of Tuchin produce more than 1,000 vueltiao hats a day, continuing an art form that has existed within the region for over 1,000 years.
It’s always hard to pick a favorite day on this itinerary, however this day in particular I consider special. This morning’s excursion was unique, offering us the opportunity to cross a physical boarder between Panama and Columbia on foot. It happens to also be the start of a month filled with Panamanian patriotic festivities, celebrating four cries of independence and the separation from Colombia on November 3, 1903. Expedition Leader Mauricio Hoyo (half Colombian half Panamanian) and I (born and raised in Panama) decided to seize this moment to commemorate the day by displaying the flag of Panama as we reached the border. Later, we walked on the outskirts of the Colombia town of Sapzurro which is surrounded by the thick Darien Rainforest. These are towns with no connection by road, its either by foot or by boat that you´ll be able to see these coastal border towns. Our nature walkers enjoyed several glimpses of the biodiversity this jungle holds. Certified Photo Instructor Steve Morello led the walk, capturing great images of the birds, sloths, and monkeys. Without dispute, he got the photo of the day, nesting crimson-crested woodpeckers. Closing our afternoon was the most special part of the day, a visit to the Capurgan School. The kids put on an incredible talent show, performing the country’s local folklore with enthusiasm. For many, it was a highlight. Photo caption and credit: Group photo in front of the Panamanian flag. Photo by Liza Dias Lalova
National Geographic Quest dropped anchor early in the morning in front of an Edenic island. This island, surrounded with white sand and lots of coconut trees, is part of the 365 islands that form the Guna Yala Archipelago. Our guests were eager to land and enjoy the beauty of it. We disembarked right after breakfast. A group of Guna gave us a lovely welcome to the island. Today we enjoyed the crystal-clear waters by using kayaks and standup paddle boards. A lovely reef also invited us to snorkel and discover the underwater world. A group of our guests enjoyed a guided walk with one of our naturalists and learned about the important use of the coconut in Guna culture. Several Guna families displayed colorful molas. They shared with us the mesmerizing art of making the molas. From a young age, the Guna girls learn how to make this lovely art. We spent the whole day in this small paradise. We could have stayed forever in this peaceful place, but our journey had to continue. The Guna community gave us a wonderful sendoff by performing several of their traditional dances and music. It was a great way to end our day.