Today began with a visit to Delso, the sacred center of the Cycladic world and the mythical birthplace of the divine twins, Artemis and Apollo. This uninhabited island is now a sprawling archaeological site and is a fascinating mix of archaic, classical, and Hellenistic remains. Our Greek guides, Effie and Roula, took us through the island’s complex history as we explored the ruins, from the seventh-century B.C. Terrace of the Lions to the mosaic-adorned private homes owned by wealthy second-century B.C. merchants. Some of the more detailed mosaics, as well as a wide range of marble sculptures and Hellenistic home furnishings, could be viewed at the island’s archaeological museum.

After finishing our guided tour, some of us braved the hike to the top of Mount Kynthos and were rewarded with spectacular views of the sparkling Aegean Sea, while others explored the quiet corners of this significant site.

We returned to the ship for lunch before enjoying an exciting afternoon of sailing under increasingly strong winds. A mid-afternoon lecture on Greece in the medieval era provided a basis for tomorrow’s shift to a different but equally intriguing period in Greek history, the Byzantine era, which is when the Cycladic islands experienced increasingly frequent raids.

In the early evening, expedition leader Tom O’Brien offered a rousing lecture on the colorful history of the Sea Cloud, from her days as a luxury yacht and diplomatic vessel to her more scandalous moments involving wealthy playboys and Hollywood starlets. After Tom’s lecture, we toured some of the original state rooms, including Marjorie Merriweather Post’s opulent quarters, in white with gold accents.