This morning we woke up anchored off the Haida island of S’Gang Gwaay. In small groups, we arrived on the shore via expedition landing craft and we were greeted by the Watchmen of S’Gang Gwaay Llnagaay. This ancient village was once home to a thriving Haida village with 20 longhouses and an impressive row of beautifully carved memorial and mortuary poles. Many of these original poles have weathered over a century of standing at the shore, and some have fallen over time. Now, under the quiet guard of the watchmen, the stories of these totems are shared with respectful visitors.
Those who did not come to the old village were treated to tours of the island aboard expedition landing craft. The discovery of a blossoming puffin colony provided exciting natural history and excellent photography opportunities. Sea lions and harbor seals were also spotted spying on visitors from among the thinly kelp-lined shores. The divers took a look below the water to find a wealth of animals. Many of the animals found would have provided food to the Haida people of the village long ago: abalone, chiton, and rockfish could be seen among the rocks, nearly barren of kelp due to the voracious red urchins. In the absence of sea otters, their prey—sea urchins—have grazed down the kelp and left an eerie landscape spotted with the bright colorful glow of the urchin.
Back on the ship, we ate our own delicious meal of pork tenderloin and Alaskan cod. We ended a beautiful day with a sweet chocolate Kahlua cake and a beautiful story of traditional, local cuisine from our Haida guests.
