Amanda McCrossin is a certified sommelier, wine personality, podcast host and wine-focused content creator on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube. With over 450k followers across platforms, Amanda has been called “one of the most influential creators” in the wine community creating wine-focused, relatable content to help consumers via her @sommvivant channels. Join her on the April 8, 2025 departure of Columbia and Snake Rivers: Food, Wine, and History (6-day). Get Inspired By Photos, Videos, Webinars, Stories, And Exclusive Offers. Sign Up
“Great wine is about far more than just pleasant taste. It is inextricably linked to the geology and cultural history of a place—in short, it’s a remarkable way to travel the world in a glass.“
That’s a quote from my friend, Ray Isle, the Executive Wine Editor for Food and Wine Magazine and the curator of wines for the Columbia and Snake River expeditions. Ray is—as usual—right, but he’s also evoking the immersive experience of a voyage with National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions. In the same way that the diverse beaks of Darwin’s finches tell the story of the Galápagos Islands, an astounding range of grape varietals can reveal eons of climate, cataclysm and culture in the Pacific Northwest. With expert insight and up-close, active exploration we can better understand the whole from its parts. In the case of the Pacific Northwest, the parts offer more than just a natural history lesson—they’re also delicious, and pair wonderfully with a range of holiday foods and festivities.
What Is Terroir and How Does It Impact Wine
Everything that grows in nature has its own thumbprint created by mother nature and the elements she controls, from climate and weather to soil and ecosystems. How those things manifest in the taste profile is known as “terroir.”
It’s why we prefer peaches from Georgia, oranges from Florida, apples from Washington and tomatoes from New Jersey (though I think some Californian’s might dispute that!). Keep in mind this concept isn’t about which items might taste better or worse, rather it’s the understanding that a place where something is grown is just as important as the actual commodity.
The vast and varied land of the Pacific Northwest has developed over millennia thanks to geologic activity ranging from erupting volcanoes to the epic Missoula floods which swept across eastern Washington and down the Columbia River Gorge at the end of the last Ice Age. This seminal event transformed the landscape, flinging massive amounts of sediment and debris and leaving in its wake a variety of soil types—from dry and rocky to loose and silty.
As a result, the region’s terroir is more of a patchwork than a thumbprint, and the wines produced here will not only taste different as compared to somewhere like Napa Valley or Bordeaux, they’ll also even taste different from site to site within just a few miles of each other.
It’s worth noting that Washington and Oregon boast 40 federally recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVAs)—aka “appellations”—each with their own nuances of climate and soil, compared to 16 AVAs in Napa Valley. As you sail through these regions along the river, you’ll not only be able to taste the incredible wines produced here, but you’ll also have the rare opportunity to traverse the land, touch the soils, meet the winemakers and make the connection between how the grape is grown and what you’re tasting in the glass. In short, you’ll get to see terroir in action.
Oregon vs Washington: World-Class Wines of the West Coast
When it comes to Oregon wines, Pinot Noir is absolutely king. This fairly fickle red grape—which is actually a champagne grape—is grown all over the world, but it is the most telling grape when it comes to terroir. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon or even Chardonnay grapes which can tolerate a heavier winemaking hand, Pinot Noir does not do well with too much manipulation once it’s been harvested.
For that reason, where Pinot Noir grows and how it’s treated in the vineyard is crucial and why you’ll often see wineries label it down to the specific vineyard or even specific block/lot of a vineyard. It also tends to be very light bodied, low tannin and surprisingly delicious with a good burger!
Because of the cooler climate and varied soils, Oregon is best suited to produce lighter wines like the pinot noir, but it’s certainly not the only one you’ll find. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and even Gamay all do incredibly well here in different pockets.
And if you’re a Champagne aficionado you may have already put two and two together that with bountiful amounts of traditional Champagne grapes (both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) there’s quite a bit of sparkling produced in Oregon—perfect for all your end-of-year celebrations.
Amanda's Oregon Holiday Picks
When turkey and other lighter proteins are hitting the table, Oregon is the perfect place to direct your attention. Lighter bodied reds like Pinot Noir and Gamay as well as fuller bodied whites like Chardonnay are the perfect compliment to the traditional Thanksgiving day table, offering fantastic acidity, texture, versatility and flavor without overwhelming the dishes. Try:
Ponzi Laurelwood Chardonnay for its signature herbaceous notes.
Adelsheim Boulder Bluff Pinot Noir for its spicy and earthy tones, but don’t sleep on a sparkling wine made from both of those grapes as a great option as well.
Sokol Blosser Bluebird Brut is a classic and perfect way to toast as well as enjoy with an array of foods.
Most of the grapes grown in Washington state are grown on the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains. Thanks to the rain-shadow effect the range creates, the region stays incredibly dry with an average yearly rainfall of about 10 inches. It’s also surprisingly warm in these parts and for that reason you’ll find more of the Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc) dominating most of eastern Washington.
However, as you veer toward the southern border in Walla Walla, Washington (part of which actually extends into the northeastern corner of Oregon), something interesting happens. The soil dramatically shifts and begins to resemble something more reminiscent of a prominent region in France—Chateauneuf du Pape—which is famed for its pudding stones. These giant rocks trap heat and create one of the most unique terroirs for winegrowing in the United States—and you’ll find them sprinkled all around Walla Walla’s vineyards.
The winemakers here pay homage to the Rhone Valley (home to Chateauneuf du Pape) as they compete to make some of the most incredible expressions of Grenache and Syrah. When tasting Syrah, make sure to spend a little extra time smelling the wine which can be incredibly aromatic with frequent notes of black olive and even roasted meat!
Along with these two grapes as well as some Bordeaux, you can also expect to see some less ubiquitous varieties and winemaking styles—thanks to more reasonably priced land and a welcoming vintner community, Washington has really become a playground for eager winemakers looking to start their own projects and push the boundaries of what’s possible.
Amanda's Washington Holiday Picks
For heavier fare, especially when it involves something like a prime rib roast or even lamb if you're going that route for a Christmas or New Year's Eve celebration, fuller bodied reds from Washington wines are ready to lend a hand. Try:
A Merlot from Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard for a plushier, softer option.
A Syrah from Sleight of Hand Cellars for something more smoky.
A Cabernet Sauvignon when you want the heavy hitter. Leonetti Reserve is a truly elegant choice.
As you’re preparing for your expedition along the Columbia and Snake Rivers, and hopefully tasting a few wines, remember that wine is subjective. It’s true that we have terminology and terroir and all the things that help us create the framework for tasting, but at the end of the day it’s about your palate. Try a variety and don’t be afraid to step out a bit. As you enjoy different options, see if the wine makes you think of songs or even artists, images and colors and pay attention to textures as you’re tasting. More so than classic tasting notes, these can create stickier memories and a much more compelling experience.
